Fish Sauce in Liquid Gold: Unraveling the True Essence of a Vietnamese Culinary Treasure
As Vietnamese Americans living in the diverse culinary haven of the San Francisco Bay Area, my peers and I have had the pleasure of exploring a multitude of cuisines and ingredients. However, there has always been one ingredient that left many of my fellow chefs cringing – Fish Sauce. "Fish Sauce stinks!" they would complain, unable to fathom the idea of using an ingredient that emitted such an abhorrent odor.
But as sons and daughters of immigrants, we understood the significance of preserving the traditions of our culture. It was heartening to witness the passion and dedication of Danny Tran, the 4th generation owner of Son Fish Sauce, as he took up the responsibility of reintroducing Fish Sauce to Westerners with authenticity and pride.
In Vietnam, fish sauce holds a profound cultural significance. It symbolizes the main resources of life for the Vietnamese people – the ocean, fish, and salt. This essence is beautifully reflected in their cuisine and culture, making fish sauce an indispensable part of Vietnamese identity.
The disapproval of certain Fish Sauce brands smelling bad was not unfounded. The misrepresentation of fish sauce in the Western world, like many foreign products, has led to a diluted and often inferior version of the original, all for the sake of profit. Throughout the years, I embarked on numerous pilgrimages to Vietnam, each one adding to my understanding of traditional fish sauce. Compounded with the privilege of being born into a family of fish sauce producers on Phu Quoc Island, I had the unique opportunity to immerse myself in the true essence of this culinary treasure. Contrary to common misconceptions, we have an understanding that traditional fish sauce emanates a deep, dark aroma reminiscent of soy sauce, far from the overpowering stench some have come to associate with it.
So, what makes commercial fish sauce smell unpleasant? The answer lies in the use of anchovy extracts. Extracts are artificial flavors that don't necessarily use the main ingredients. In the case of anchovy extract in Vietnam, it often involves old anchovies that were not fresh or market-worthy. These decaying fish are dried, and pulverized into a paste with additives, including processed wheat, resulting in an inferior product that fails to capture the true essence of traditional fish sauce.
Traditional Vietnamese Fish Sauce is made from a meticulous process of fermenting 70% fresh wild-caught anchovies and 30% sea salt for a year. Similar to olive oil, fish sauce undergoes pressing, and the first press, comparable to 'extra virgin' in the Italian olive oil tradition, produces a top-tier product. The various press levels are rated by measuring the presence of protein (degrees of nitrogen) per liter, often denoted as 40*, 33*, 25*, etc., on the bottle. In contrast, Western commercial fish sauce is rated much lower, typically scaling between 12*-14*.
Danny Tran's Son Fish Sauce stands out as a pure and top-quality product, considered the 'extra virgin' of fish sauces. Using it in recipes might require slight adjustments due to its robust umami-packed flavor. Besides cooking, Danny enjoys it as a plain dipping condiment and even uses it medicinally to keep his body warm during family fishing excursions in the ocean.
In the market, fish sauce can be categorized into three types: generic, processed, and traditional. Generic fish sauce often contains anchovy extract, mixed with water, sugar, hydrolyzed wheat protein (MSG), and other additives. The processed fish sauce uses the lowest grade of natural fish but follows the traditional fermentation process, concentrating the sauce to increase fish protein ratings. Finally, traditional fish sauce consists of anchovy and sea salt, providing a balanced and fragrant flavor without the unpleasant stink.
Danny Tran's dedication to producing traditional fish sauce has set Son Fish Sauce apart from others. The company provides various fish sauce grades, a unique offering outside Vietnam. Their product not only preserves Vietnamese heritage but also educates customers about the culture defined by authentic tradition and craftsmanship.
Danny Tran's efforts have indeed opened the eyes of many to the true beauty of Vietnam and its culinary treasure, fish sauce. As the new generation of craftsmen and women, it is our responsibility to accurately represent our cultural traditions and ingredients, ensuring that they are celebrated for their true essence rather than diluted or misrepresented for profit.
And that’s why I’ve partnered with Son Fish Sauce and Spice Tribe to import this 100% pure, artisanal, aged, and single-origin Son fish sauce. Since 1951, the Son Fish Sauce family has been producing traditional fish sauce rooted in the indigenous customs of Kien Giang, a province with international acclaim for its production of Asian fish sauce.
Note: The addition of Fish Sauce can enhance the flavors of any dish. Its alluring umami, earthy and savory flavors are hypnotizing; this umami-packed, liquid gold is guaranteed to make you salivate
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Last updated: August 2nd, 2023